Steering wheel refurb

After seeing the price of original wheels, we decided what do we have to lose trying to fix up the original one on the GMC.  The years of Texas sun had taken their toll, leaving cracks in the plastic about every half inch all of the way around the wheel.  In the picture you can only really see the big cracks, once we started looking closer they were everywhere.

 Several places sell kits, but since the original idea was to do this cheap, we tried using things we had around the house.  First, all the cracks were opened up using a rotary tool to give the filler something to hold on to.  I didn't take any pictures at this stage, but there wasn't much left after every crack was ground open.  Then everything was filled with JB Weld.  At least it looks like what is sold for steering wheel repair, and it hardens like steel and is reasonably sandable.  Next step, lots of sanding and grinding to get the form back to close.  Then many layers of spot putty; probably not as good as regular body filler but easier to to work with in small quantities.  Follow up with sand, more sanding, and more sanding.

We used a flexible plastic primer, thinking it would hold up better to keep things from cracking again.  Unfortunately, this primer was clear, and you need a colored base coat. The gray is another automotive primer I had around.  Then you guessed it, more sanding, followed by more coats up paint, sanding up to 600 grit to get everything reasonably smooth.  I never did get happy with the two indents on the arms from the center to the rim of the wheel, but this will mostly bug me and anyone that goes looking for faults. 

We finished the wheel with a champagne automotive paint left from models.  Plus it's a reasonable match to what was stock in the truck and what we will try to repaint the interior later.  This was a little glossy for our taste, so another coat of the clear primer dulled it out to a nice satin.  Lots of work, but the only cost was time and one can of plastic primer. Time will tell if all the work was worth it and the cracks don't come back.

Power steering 'conversion'

Apologies in advance - this post will be heavy on details to help out people in the future that want to upgrade power steering on a 1960-66 Chevy/GMC truck.  I couldn't find anyone that did it the way we did, and it cost us a few extra parts and trips to O'Reilly's.

Our GMC came with factory power assist steering that we really wanted to save to keep the originality.  We had already purchased 2" drop spindles and disc brakes from CPP, so we needed to use parts that worked with this kit.  If you use the original steering arm or a kit that attaches to factory tie rod ends at the spindle, you'll run into the same problems. 

Factory power assist uses the manual box with an added hydraulic ram. The pitman is different from the manual steering. On the GMC, there are no corners cut off the ram like you see in Nova's and Corvette's of the period.  Otherwise the setup looks to be the same.  There was a little play in the box, a lot of slop in the valve, and everything else was just worn.  The control valve and hydraulic ram parts are hard to find and expensive to rebuild.  We took it all out as one piece to note how everything fits.  The drag link looked to be in good shape until it was unscrewed from the control valve.  It's held in by a clamp that threads on to the drag link, ours had about 4 threads that weren't wiped off.  Not sure how this happened, but since this isn't replaceable or repairable, it pretty much sealed the deal that we would have to find a different option.

Everyone seems to be using the 68-87 power steering setup from GMC or Chevy trucks.  There are several key differences from 1966, including placement of the steering box, idler arm, and sizes of the tie rod ends.  We chose to use the adapter from CPP that fit well on our GMC.  You have to drill a couple holes, but that was cake.  We purchased a steering box, pump, and the drag link and associated parts out to each wheel for a 1987 GMC - as new as we could go since it's still 27 years old.  Or at least that was what the junkyard told us - the idler from a '75 model fit, '87 did not, according to what O'Reilly's book said.  But, they also had the inner tie rod marked as outer and vice versa.

First step is to cut off the end of the steering linkage including the coupler to the box.  The CPP kit comes with a double D end that has to be cut off to use the round bar.  I saw someone had ground the sides of the stock steering shaft to be able to use the double D section.  Clever idea I wish I though of first.  Next the steering box bolts to the frame, and attaches with a new rag joint, Dorman 31015.  Parts stores list 31011, which is for the manual box and too small.  The internet says this will work for the Jeep Grand Cherokee box in my Chevelle.

We set everything to point straight ahead, and welded the adapter to the steering column linkage.  You can also bolt or pin, but this would require drilling a hole and a tight fit on the bolt.  I trust my weld to be strong enough to keep everything solid.

The drag link and idler arm bracket need to match the upgraded steering parts.  The tie rod ends went to a larger size in '68, so make sure you get these parts for the swap.  I needed to drill new holes to mount the idler arm. Here's what I needed to connect everything up:

Moog K6143 Pitman Arm (73-87)

MasterPro K6096 Idler Arm (these changed over 73-87, so match it up)

66 Chevy/GMC tie rod end (right thread, inner I think)

Moog ES409LT tie rod end (left thread, factory 73-87 inner)

Custom adjustable sleeve - this has been the hardest part.

For the tie rod adjuster, call DCA Racing in LaCrosse.  Great guys, they were very helpful, knew exactly what we needed, and cheap.  Would have saved us tons of trips to the parts store.  Ask for:

Outer 5/8-18 right thread to Inner 11/16-16 left thread 

We asked for 5.25" long, 4.5" would have been better.

I powder coated them - but after tightening everything down I'm not quite sure why.  Probably have to hit with a rattle can after an alignment.  We set the steering wheel square, but noticed the drag link is shifted to the drivers side.  At some point we'll need to pull the wheel, square the front end, and put the wheel back on straight. Details for another day.

The picture above shows the new style idler arm in place, and below you can see where I drilled the holes. We used the updated idler arm, because the original uses a different size tapered joint.  To get the linkage straight, we lined up the drag link parallel to the crossmember, and set it level using my iPhone. The upper bolt is roughly even with the bottom of the large oval factory hole, and ~2" forward.  The bolt to the idler arm in the forward position is roughly in the same place as the forward joint in the factory set-up, so you could eye-ball off the factory idler bolts to get this close.  Obviously we haven't driven it yet to make sure it works, but nothing binds or hits as it sits.

And the final piece, sway bar from ~1985 Suburban.  Easiest part of the whole upgrade, just drill four holes in the frame and bolt it in.  The a-arms are already drilled for the factory brackets.

 

Cheap, no, but there is now zero play in the wheel and everything moves easy.  When we started it didn't even feel like the wheel was connected to the tires!

Oh, and don't forget to grease all the new fittings.

Window screen, shingles, and aluminum flashing

We started in on the tear down to figure out just what we are starting with, and oh my, as much of a fan of using what you have, the previous owner took this too far.  My first plea is if you don't know what you are doing, please, do nothing!  I'm pretty sure the last guy working on the GMC just grabbed whatever was laying around that was flat and mudded over the top of it.  Then drove through  a muddy field to add another inch of real mud over the top.

Fenders - not salvageable.  Inner brace missing, bondo over the top of rust and paint.  That hole in the door, filled with window screen.  Fortunately door skins and fenders are interchangeable and reasonably easy to replace.  An astute eye will note missing brace on driver side - jamming a piece of flashing inside the fender does not constitute a proper repair!

 The floor was even more of a masterpiece.  Wonder what is under all of this bondo?  I wasn't expecting metal...

 ...but also was not expecting a roof shingle.

The next few are just typical rust demons from the 60's.  Radiator support has a few holes, as does the inner fender.  All easily replaced or repaired (correctly!)

The floor in the front corners of the cab have been "repaired" multiple times, or maybe just once poorly?  The welds, if you can call them that, are gobs of disconnected metal across multiple patches with enough mud on the inside just to make taking them out miserable.  This all has to go.

Finally, a couple teasers.  For the parts we can save (those that no one tried to repair!), we're giving them a good cleaning and preventative clear.  Eventually everything will be stripped down, correctly painted and a patina applied.  We don't want to lose any more parts to time.  BTW, for those that don't know, the hood is specific to GMC and not available.  It looks similar, but not the same as Chevy.

I have loved trucks since I was a little girl growing up in my Dad's garage and I finally have one again!  I have also always wanted a rat rod project (I love a good patina!) of my own and am the first one in my car oriented family to do one.  We found a 1966 GMC 1/2 ton that had been shipped to the Midwest from Texas where it appears to have had a hard, long life.  Caked in mud and not running, a friend trailered it here for us and now the work begins.  Disassembly has begun and a pallet of new metal has arrived to rebuild the truck to it's former glory.  I will top it off with a rust patina paint job and the original blue in a satin finish so the body will be protected and not continue to rust away.  It has a large back window, a 351 V6 and a shortbed, fleet side box. I will reuse the original bumper and grill--I appreciate it's dents and character the way it is.  The V6 is going away to be replaced with the 327 out of a '65 Chevelle SS that I used to work on with my late Dad when I was growing up.   The Chevelle is another project my husband is having done and can be viewed at www.hosschevelle.blogspot.com 

We have decided to name the truck Idle Hands because this was originally my husband's bad idea that I was supposed to talk him out of. Unfortunately, I loved the idea and couldn't wait to find a project!  It's something for us to tinker with together since we've missed working on cars for quite some time. We tore apart the top end of the 327 and my brother who is a mechanic will rebuild it with a performance kit from Summit Racing.  I have plans to drag race this beast when it's done and take my girlfriends with me and let them drive too.  So many people have racing a car on their bucket list but don't have anything to run. I've done it for years and like to introduce new people to the adrenaline rush I love so much.  One of the future plans is to recycle the bomber jacket leather off of an old love seat to recover the bench for a pieced leather look.  I want lots of seams and textures on it and can't wait to take it to the upholsterer for it's makeover.  My husband pointed out that a "normal" woman would have been happy with a several thousand dollar diamond ring and seriously pissed if she was given a rusty truck that didn't run. Obviously I am not your average woman!